Journal

One and a half million hectares of grassland, the largest unaltered migration left on earth, and the rocks that give it its shape.

Two dry windows for tracking, two wet ones for birds and lower prices, and one monthly morning that stops the whole country.

Uganda is far more significant as a country people arrive in than as one they left, and that changes what a reconnection visit means.

A republic containing kingdoms, a cloth made from bark, and several rules of dress and speech that carry criminal penalties.

A calendar of kingdoms, pilgrimage and one of the continent's best known music festivals, currently under public health restrictions.

A steamed green banana that counts as the national dish, and a chapati wrapped around eggs that counts as the national snack.

Almost half the world's mountain gorillas live in one forest surrounded by farmland at 350 people to the square kilometer.

Nine hundred years of salt made on the shore of Lake Albert, in gardens owned and worked entirely by women, under a rift escarpment.

Geometric paintings in three rock shelters in eastern Uganda, whose age and makers are still disputed by the people who list them.

Glaciers on the equator, Africa's third highest peak, and an alpine flora that has been called Africa's botanical big game.

A royal burial ground of thatch and barkcloth that burned down, was rebuilt over thirteen years, and left the Danger List in 2023.

Two wet seasons, two dry ones, and one week in April when the whole country is doing something other than receiving visitors.