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The Ilala ferry, the minibus and the long distance coach, and why fuel shortages and unlit roads shape every journey plan in Malawi.

Malawi is welcoming and its roads are the real risk. Theft clusters at bus stations, the law on same-sex activity is severe, and health cover matters.

Nsima is not a side dish in Malawi, it is the meal, and UNESCO inscribed the whole tradition around it. What to eat and how it is eaten.

Greetings that take time, a matrilineal inheritance system and a masked society older than the state. How to be a good guest in Malawi.

Six traditions on the UNESCO lists and one lakeside music festival. Malawi keeps its calendar in dance rather than in dates you can book.

Malawi sat on the eastern slave route, not the Atlantic one. The lake carried captives to Kilwa, and the trail that records it is on the Tentative List.

What step free access actually looks like in Malawi, from the airport and the lake ferry to the lodges, told without pretending the country is easy.

Sixteen hundred square meters of stone steps in Port Louis, where a system that moved half a million people and reshaped the labor of empires began.

The basalt mountain at the southwest corner where escaped slaves sheltered, inscribed for what is remembered about it rather than for what is built on it.

What a safari actually involves, how the seasons work, and the questions worth asking an operator.

The last of the native forest of Mauritius, on 3.5 per cent of the island, holding species that exist nowhere else. On the Tentative List, not inscribed.

A crater lake in the Mauritian highlands, the most important Hindu site on the island and the focus of the largest Hindu pilgrimage outside India.

One of the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere, and the clearest surviving record of the plant economy that indenture was imported to serve.

Mauritius is warm all year, so the question is not temperature. It is cyclones, humidity and the difference between the coast and the plateau.

Most visitors enter Mauritius without a visa, but nobody enters without the health declaration form. What to complete before you fly, and why.