The Afar Depression in northeastern Ethiopia holds one of the deepest records of human origins anywhere, alongside a working salt trade, an acid hydrothermal field and a persistent lava lake. It is also a region the US, UK and Canadian governments currently advise against.
Archaeological sites, rock shelters, Swahili coastal towns and a language spoken by 200 million people: a guide to the heritage landscapes of Tanzania, and how to travel among them responsibly.
The crater is one part of an 809,440-hectare World Heritage property that also holds Olduvai Gorge, the Laetoli footprints, Maasai pastoral communities and an unresolved argument about who conservation is for.
Heritage travel is not sightseeing with a heavier subject. It asks something of the traveler that ordinary travel does not, and it is worth knowing what, before you go.